The Importance of Disability Insurance

Luisa Hough • March 29, 2016

It took a journey back into the archives to find this little beauty of a video by Canadian finance expert Preet Banerjee.

Before giving Ted Talks, or appearing regularly on CBC Marketplace, or any of the other countless things Preet has done, he had some smart things to say about disability insurance. Certainly worth a watch!

If you are in the process of buying a home and/or thinking about protecting yourself,  feel free to contact me anytime! I will make sure you are well taken care of. 

Transcript

Hi everyone, my name is Preet Banerjee, and today we’re going to talk about disability insurance. But before we get started, I wanted to share some other feedback that I received from the first video blog entry. Essentially I was told, do not wear just a black t-shirt, do not call it Mostly Money Mostly Canadian, and try not to be such a tight ass.

Okay, so what’s the deal with disability insurance? You insure your house, you insure your car, and might even injure every single out electronic gadget that you own. But what about your single biggest asset; your ability to earning income for the rest of your life.

Let’s put that into context: Assume a university graduate starts their working career earning forty five thousand dollars per year, assuming raises and promotions over time, perhaps their salary grows by 4% per year. Over 40 year career, that translates into over 4.25 million dollars. Overtime part of that is slowly converted into tangible assets and investments. While you are younger your future potential earnings is your biggest asset. How well-protected is that asset?

For example, life insurance protects your family’s lifestyle if you die. Clearly your income stops but a lump sum death benefit is there to provide for your family. When you die, you don’t want your spouse or the rest of your family to be burdened unnecessarily if you can avoid it.  So perhaps, that lump sum benefit can be used to pay off the mortgage, help with the bills that need to be paid, maybe it’s for education for the kids. But what happens if you don’t die? What happens if you become sick or injured and don’t have an income anymore? Your family is not going to get that life insurance lump-sum death benefit and remember to collect that lump sum death benefit you have to be dead, so that’s off the table. You’re alive, you’re just unable to work, what do you do?

Unfortunately the sad realization for many families is, they might have been better off if they had indeed died. Because they’re still alive but they don’t have an income and they still have all those bills to pay. The mortgage still needs to be paid, other bills around the house all still need to be paid, and quite frankly depending on your injury or sickness you might need to afford special assistant devices. What could end up happening is a downsizing of your lifestyle, or quite frankly you can go broke.

According to Canada Life you have a 1 in 3 chance at becoming disabled for more than 90 days before the age of 65 and the average length disability that last more than 90 days is 2.9 years.

Ask yourself this question: Could your finances survive 2.9 years of no income? Now if you have a benefit plan at work that provides for disability insurance coverage, make sure that you take a look at that book and see exactly what that coverage is. Some benefit plans only pay for five years, others pay until you turn 65. The percentage of income that’s replaced also varies, so dig out that employee handbook and look it up and see how much coverage you actually have. If you find that you don’t have enough or as much as you would like, talk to an insurance agent. They can create a pop-up plan that would piggyback onto your existing coverage. And if you have no disability insurance whatsoever, run (safely) don’t walk to your insurance agent to talk about what your options are. 

Simply talking to an insurance agent doesn’t mean you have to sign up for a policy but I promise you one of the biggest mistake people make is not having disability insurance coverage.

Now, you should be prepared for some sticker shock, disability insurance policy’s don’t tend to be the cheapest insurance policies but remember the asset that you’re protecting is potentially one is your single biggest asset, so it would only make sense that it would cost more. a typical insurance policy for disability coverage might be a hundred dollars a month, it could be a little bit less and could be substantially more. It really depends on the type of work you do, and your health situation as well as other factors that you’re agent can talk to you about. Remember, always seek the advice of a qualified professional for your own situation. These are just general tips to bring you up to speed on that very basics.

Well that’s it for this video, I hope you have a better understanding now of disability insurance coverage. My name’s Preet Banerjee, don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel for more money tips.

Recent Posts

By Luisa & Candice Mortgages December 3, 2025
Can You Afford That Mortgage? Let’s Talk About Debt Service Ratios One of the biggest factors lenders look at when deciding whether you qualify for a mortgage is something called your debt service ratios. It’s a financial check-up to make sure you can handle the payments—not just for your new home, but for everything else you owe as well. If you’d rather skip the math and have someone walk through this with you, that’s what I’m here for. But if you like to understand how things work behind the scenes, keep reading. We’re going to break down what these ratios are, how to calculate them, and why they matter when it comes to getting approved. What Are Debt Service Ratios? Debt service ratios measure your ability to manage your financial obligations based on your income. There are two key ratios lenders care about: Gross Debt Service (GDS) This looks at the percentage of your income that would go toward housing expenses only. 2. Total Debt Service (TDS) This includes your housing costs plus all other debt payments—car loans, credit cards, student loans, support payments, etc. How to Calculate GDS and TDS Let’s break down the formulas. GDS Formula: (P + I + T + H + Condo Fees*) ÷ Gross Monthly Income Where: P = Principal I = Interest T = Property Taxes H = Heat Condo fees are usually calculated at 50% of the total amount TDS Formula: (GDS + Monthly Debt Payments) ÷ Gross Monthly Income These ratios tell lenders if your budget is already stretched too thin—or if you’ve got room to safely take on a mortgage. How High Is Too High? Most lenders follow maximum thresholds, especially for insured (high-ratio) mortgages. As of now, those limits are typically: GDS: Max 39% TDS: Max 44% Go above those numbers and your application could be declined, regardless of how confident you feel about your ability to manage the payments. Real-World Example Let’s say you’re earning $90,000 a year, or $7,500 a month. You find a home you love, and the monthly housing costs (mortgage payment, property tax, heat) total $1,700/month. GDS = $1,700 ÷ $7,500 = 22.7% You’re well under the 39% cap—so far, so good. Now factor in your other monthly obligations: Car loan: $300 Child support: $500 Credit card/line of credit payments: $700 Total other debt = $1,500/month Now add that to the $1,700 in housing costs: TDS = $3,200 ÷ $7,500 = 42.7% Uh oh. Even though your GDS looks great, your TDS is just over the 42% limit. That could put your mortgage approval at risk—even if you’re paying similar or higher rent now. What Can You Do? In cases like this, small adjustments can make a big difference: Consolidate or restructure your debts to lower monthly payments Reallocate part of your down payment to reduce high-interest debt Add a co-applicant to increase qualifying income Wait and build savings or credit strength before applying This is where working with an experienced mortgage professional pays off. We can look at your entire financial picture and help you make strategic moves to qualify confidently. Don’t Leave It to Chance Everyone’s situation is different, and debt service ratios aren’t something you want to guess at. The earlier you start the conversation, the more time you’ll have to improve your numbers and boost your chances of approval. If you're wondering how much home you can afford—or want help analyzing your own GDS and TDS—let’s connect. I’d be happy to walk through your numbers and help you build a solid mortgage strategy.
By Luisa & Candice Mortgages November 26, 2025
Thinking About Buying a Home? Here’s What to Know Before You Start Whether you're buying your very first home or preparing for your next move, the process can feel overwhelming—especially with so many unknowns. But it doesn’t have to be. With the right guidance and preparation, you can approach your home purchase with clarity and confidence. This article will walk you through a high-level overview of what lenders look for and what you’ll need to consider in the early stages of buying a home. Once you’re ready to move forward with a pre-approval, we’ll dive into the details together. 1. Are You Credit-Ready? One of the first things a lender will evaluate is your credit history. Your credit profile helps determine your risk level—and whether you're likely to repay your mortgage as agreed. To be considered “established,” you’ll need: At least two active credit accounts (like credit cards, loans, or lines of credit) Each with a minimum limit of $2,500 Reporting for at least two years Just as important: your repayment history. Make all your payments on time, every time. A missed payment won’t usually impact your credit unless you’re 30 days or more past due—but even one slip can lower your score. 2. Is Your Income Reliable? Lenders are trusting you with hundreds of thousands of dollars, so they want to be confident that your income is stable enough to support regular mortgage payments. Salaried employees in permanent positions generally have the easiest time qualifying. If you’re self-employed, or your income includes commission, overtime, or bonuses, expect to provide at least two years’ worth of income documentation. The more predictable your income, the easier it is to qualify. 3. What’s Your Down Payment Plan? Every mortgage requires some amount of money upfront. In Canada, the minimum down payment is: 5% on the first $500,000 of the purchase price 10% on the portion above $500,000 20% for homes over $1 million You’ll also need to show proof of at least 1.5% of the purchase price for closing costs (think legal fees, appraisals, and taxes). The best source of a down payment is your own savings, supported by a 90-day history in your bank account. But gifted funds from immediate family and proceeds from a property sale are also acceptable. 4. How Much Can You Actually Afford? There’s a big difference between what you feel you can afford and what you can prove you can afford. Lenders base your approval on verifiable documentation—not assumptions. Your approval amount depends on a variety of factors, including: Income and employment history Existing debts Credit score Down payment amount Property taxes and heating costs for the home All of these factors are used to calculate your debt service ratios—a key indicator of whether your mortgage is affordable. Start Early, Plan Smart Even if you’re months (or more) away from buying, the best time to start planning is now. When you work with an independent mortgage professional, you get access to expert advice at no cost to you. We can: Review your credit profile Help you understand how lenders view your income Guide your down payment planning Determine how much you can qualify to borrow Build a roadmap if your finances need some fine-tuning If you're ready to start mapping out your home buying plan or want to know where you stand today, let’s talk. It would be a pleasure to help you get mortgage-ready.
By Luisa & Candice Mortgages November 19, 2025
Can You Get a Mortgage If You Have Collections on Your Credit Report? Short answer? Not easily. Long answer? It depends—and it’s more common (and fixable) than you might think. When it comes to applying for a mortgage, your credit report tells lenders a story. Collections—debts that have been passed to a collection agency because they weren’t paid on time—are big red flags in that story. Regardless of how or why they got there, open collections are going to hurt your chances of getting approved. Let’s break this down. What Exactly Is a Collection? A collection appears on your credit report when a bill goes unpaid for long enough that the lender decides to stop chasing you—and hires a collection agency to do it instead. It doesn’t matter whether it was an unpaid phone bill, a forgotten credit card, or a disputed fine: to a lender, it signals risk. And lenders don’t like risk. Why It Matters to Mortgage Lenders? Lenders use your credit report to gauge how trustworthy you are with borrowed money. If they see you haven’t paid a past debt, especially recently, it suggests you might do the same with a new mortgage—and that’s enough to get your application denied. Even small collections can cause problems. A $32 unpaid utility bill might seem insignificant to you, but to a lender, it’s a red flag waving loudly. But What If I Didn’t Know About the Collection? It happens all the time. You move provinces and miss a final utility charge. Your cell provider sends a bill to an old address. Or maybe the collection is showing in error—credit reports aren’t perfect, and mistakes do happen. Regardless of the reason, the responsibility to resolve it still falls on you. Even if it’s an honest oversight or an error, lenders will expect you to clear it up or prove it’s been paid. And What If I Chose Not to Pay It? Some people intentionally leave certain collections unpaid—maybe they disagree with a charge, or feel a fine is unfair. Here are a few common “moral stand” collections: Disputed phone bills COVID-related fines Traffic tickets Unpaid spousal or child support While you might feel justified, lenders don’t take sides. They’re not interested in why a collection exists—only that it hasn’t been dealt with. And if it’s still active, that could be enough to derail your mortgage application. How Can You Find Out What’s On Your Report? Easy. You can check it yourself through services like Equifax or TransUnion, or you can work with a mortgage advisor to go through a full pre-approval. A pre-approval will quickly uncover any credit issues, including collections—giving you a chance to fix them before you apply for a mortgage. What To Do If You Have Collections Verify: Make sure the collection is accurate. Pay or Dispute: Settle the debt or begin a dispute process if it’s an error. Get Proof: Even if your credit report hasn’t updated yet, documentation showing the debt is paid can be enough for some lenders. Work With a Pro: A mortgage advisor can help you build a strategy and connect you with lenders who offer flexible solutions. Collections are common, but they can absolutely block your path to mortgage financing. Whether you knew about them or not, the best approach is to take action early. If you’d like to find out where you stand—or need help navigating your credit report—I’d be happy to help. Let’s make sure your next mortgage application has the best possible chance of approval.

Luisa & Candice Mortgages 

Contact Me Anytime!

The best way to get ahold of me is to submit through the contact form below. However feel free to give me a shout on the phone as well.

Contact Us