How (Not) to Consolidate Debt

Luisa Hough • May 19, 2016

By Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance.

The point: it doesn’t matter what method you use to pay off debt, or if you use any method at all. What matters is that you stop creating new debt.

It’s out there: the mathematically precise, strictly rational formula for paying off your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit balance. It’s not too hard to calculate the most efficient way to allocate every dollar and wring the most interest-busting bang out of each buck.

If that doesn’t work for you – and let’s be honest, it often doesn’t  – there’s a psychologically motivating method that throws math out the window and concentrates on tickling your brainpan with the momentum of every dollar that’s paid off – like the eponymous snowball rolling down a hill.

Proponents of these two camps are territorial and permanently at odds. (I’m just spitballing here, but I imagine it has to do with not being able to live inside somebody else’s brain and see how it works, like so many other disputes.)

Frankly, I don’t care how you pay off debt, so long as you simultaneously stop creating more.

Enter debt consolidation. Often a polarizing bone of contention between the two camps, debt consolidation – for those three of you in the back of the room unfamiliar with the concept – is when a lender gives you the money to pay back all of your other debt that’s scattered across the country and pay them back instead. They win by getting a new loan on the books, and stealing market share from the competition. You win by bringing down your overall interest rate.

What’s to argue with, right?

This is what to argue with: there’s a teeny-tiny window of opportunity in which debt consolidation is a powerful tool to bring your debt-free date closer and eat vast chunks out of the total amount of interest you’ll pay. That window of opportunity is open for about half an hour, and when it closes, it’s so hard to reopen that it might as well be painted shut.

If from the outset you don’t commit to a payment that is equal to or more than the amount you were paying on your unconsolidated debt, and that will get your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit paid off in less time than they were originally amortized for, then you’re not paying down your debt, you’re just moving it around.

If you don’t take a long, hard look at how you got into debt in the first place, and – from minute one of your newly consolidated life – take measured, calculated steps to not do it again, those credit card balances are going to creep back up again. You’ll find yourself in the same office, maybe even in front of the same banker, signing a new set of loan papers for a new consolidation loan three years down the road.

I began my career in banking in the heyday of debt consolidation lending. The amount of new unsecured dollars added to our lending portfolio was a huge component of our sales scorecard, and while the focus shifted to include a wider spectrum of  product sales after 2008, banks are still hungry for your debt consolidation dollars. *

Folks, I’ve seen a lot of debt consolidation train wrecks, and about five of them where due to circumstances beyond the borrower’s control. The other 7,256,219 were due to the window slamming shut, either because the borrower didn’t know or didn’t care about it.

I’d love to blame the bank for it (you know I would), but I can’t. Yes, the banker you sit across from has incentive to talk you into stupid stuff that’ll not only shut the window of opportunity, but nail it closed and board it up too. (“Increasing your cash flow” is a phrase that comes to mind.)

But down in the land of brass tacks, you just signed a loan to pay off other loans. If you weren’t thinking about how you got to this point at this point, when else are you going to think about it?

If it was important enough to you to take action, why isn’t it important enough to change your behaviour?

* They’d like those dollars to be in the form of a secured line of credit, though, and will sell you on the fact that you can consolidate again and again and again, without ever having to go back into the bank to do it.

This article was written by Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance and originally appeared on Spring the Blog here. 

Recent Posts

By Luisa & Candice Mortgages December 3, 2025
Can You Afford That Mortgage? Let’s Talk About Debt Service Ratios One of the biggest factors lenders look at when deciding whether you qualify for a mortgage is something called your debt service ratios. It’s a financial check-up to make sure you can handle the payments—not just for your new home, but for everything else you owe as well. If you’d rather skip the math and have someone walk through this with you, that’s what I’m here for. But if you like to understand how things work behind the scenes, keep reading. We’re going to break down what these ratios are, how to calculate them, and why they matter when it comes to getting approved. What Are Debt Service Ratios? Debt service ratios measure your ability to manage your financial obligations based on your income. There are two key ratios lenders care about: Gross Debt Service (GDS) This looks at the percentage of your income that would go toward housing expenses only. 2. Total Debt Service (TDS) This includes your housing costs plus all other debt payments—car loans, credit cards, student loans, support payments, etc. How to Calculate GDS and TDS Let’s break down the formulas. GDS Formula: (P + I + T + H + Condo Fees*) ÷ Gross Monthly Income Where: P = Principal I = Interest T = Property Taxes H = Heat Condo fees are usually calculated at 50% of the total amount TDS Formula: (GDS + Monthly Debt Payments) ÷ Gross Monthly Income These ratios tell lenders if your budget is already stretched too thin—or if you’ve got room to safely take on a mortgage. How High Is Too High? Most lenders follow maximum thresholds, especially for insured (high-ratio) mortgages. As of now, those limits are typically: GDS: Max 39% TDS: Max 44% Go above those numbers and your application could be declined, regardless of how confident you feel about your ability to manage the payments. Real-World Example Let’s say you’re earning $90,000 a year, or $7,500 a month. You find a home you love, and the monthly housing costs (mortgage payment, property tax, heat) total $1,700/month. GDS = $1,700 ÷ $7,500 = 22.7% You’re well under the 39% cap—so far, so good. Now factor in your other monthly obligations: Car loan: $300 Child support: $500 Credit card/line of credit payments: $700 Total other debt = $1,500/month Now add that to the $1,700 in housing costs: TDS = $3,200 ÷ $7,500 = 42.7% Uh oh. Even though your GDS looks great, your TDS is just over the 42% limit. That could put your mortgage approval at risk—even if you’re paying similar or higher rent now. What Can You Do? In cases like this, small adjustments can make a big difference: Consolidate or restructure your debts to lower monthly payments Reallocate part of your down payment to reduce high-interest debt Add a co-applicant to increase qualifying income Wait and build savings or credit strength before applying This is where working with an experienced mortgage professional pays off. We can look at your entire financial picture and help you make strategic moves to qualify confidently. Don’t Leave It to Chance Everyone’s situation is different, and debt service ratios aren’t something you want to guess at. The earlier you start the conversation, the more time you’ll have to improve your numbers and boost your chances of approval. If you're wondering how much home you can afford—or want help analyzing your own GDS and TDS—let’s connect. I’d be happy to walk through your numbers and help you build a solid mortgage strategy.
By Luisa & Candice Mortgages November 26, 2025
Thinking About Buying a Home? Here’s What to Know Before You Start Whether you're buying your very first home or preparing for your next move, the process can feel overwhelming—especially with so many unknowns. But it doesn’t have to be. With the right guidance and preparation, you can approach your home purchase with clarity and confidence. This article will walk you through a high-level overview of what lenders look for and what you’ll need to consider in the early stages of buying a home. Once you’re ready to move forward with a pre-approval, we’ll dive into the details together. 1. Are You Credit-Ready? One of the first things a lender will evaluate is your credit history. Your credit profile helps determine your risk level—and whether you're likely to repay your mortgage as agreed. To be considered “established,” you’ll need: At least two active credit accounts (like credit cards, loans, or lines of credit) Each with a minimum limit of $2,500 Reporting for at least two years Just as important: your repayment history. Make all your payments on time, every time. A missed payment won’t usually impact your credit unless you’re 30 days or more past due—but even one slip can lower your score. 2. Is Your Income Reliable? Lenders are trusting you with hundreds of thousands of dollars, so they want to be confident that your income is stable enough to support regular mortgage payments. Salaried employees in permanent positions generally have the easiest time qualifying. If you’re self-employed, or your income includes commission, overtime, or bonuses, expect to provide at least two years’ worth of income documentation. The more predictable your income, the easier it is to qualify. 3. What’s Your Down Payment Plan? Every mortgage requires some amount of money upfront. In Canada, the minimum down payment is: 5% on the first $500,000 of the purchase price 10% on the portion above $500,000 20% for homes over $1 million You’ll also need to show proof of at least 1.5% of the purchase price for closing costs (think legal fees, appraisals, and taxes). The best source of a down payment is your own savings, supported by a 90-day history in your bank account. But gifted funds from immediate family and proceeds from a property sale are also acceptable. 4. How Much Can You Actually Afford? There’s a big difference between what you feel you can afford and what you can prove you can afford. Lenders base your approval on verifiable documentation—not assumptions. Your approval amount depends on a variety of factors, including: Income and employment history Existing debts Credit score Down payment amount Property taxes and heating costs for the home All of these factors are used to calculate your debt service ratios—a key indicator of whether your mortgage is affordable. Start Early, Plan Smart Even if you’re months (or more) away from buying, the best time to start planning is now. When you work with an independent mortgage professional, you get access to expert advice at no cost to you. We can: Review your credit profile Help you understand how lenders view your income Guide your down payment planning Determine how much you can qualify to borrow Build a roadmap if your finances need some fine-tuning If you're ready to start mapping out your home buying plan or want to know where you stand today, let’s talk. It would be a pleasure to help you get mortgage-ready.
By Luisa & Candice Mortgages November 19, 2025
Can You Get a Mortgage If You Have Collections on Your Credit Report? Short answer? Not easily. Long answer? It depends—and it’s more common (and fixable) than you might think. When it comes to applying for a mortgage, your credit report tells lenders a story. Collections—debts that have been passed to a collection agency because they weren’t paid on time—are big red flags in that story. Regardless of how or why they got there, open collections are going to hurt your chances of getting approved. Let’s break this down. What Exactly Is a Collection? A collection appears on your credit report when a bill goes unpaid for long enough that the lender decides to stop chasing you—and hires a collection agency to do it instead. It doesn’t matter whether it was an unpaid phone bill, a forgotten credit card, or a disputed fine: to a lender, it signals risk. And lenders don’t like risk. Why It Matters to Mortgage Lenders? Lenders use your credit report to gauge how trustworthy you are with borrowed money. If they see you haven’t paid a past debt, especially recently, it suggests you might do the same with a new mortgage—and that’s enough to get your application denied. Even small collections can cause problems. A $32 unpaid utility bill might seem insignificant to you, but to a lender, it’s a red flag waving loudly. But What If I Didn’t Know About the Collection? It happens all the time. You move provinces and miss a final utility charge. Your cell provider sends a bill to an old address. Or maybe the collection is showing in error—credit reports aren’t perfect, and mistakes do happen. Regardless of the reason, the responsibility to resolve it still falls on you. Even if it’s an honest oversight or an error, lenders will expect you to clear it up or prove it’s been paid. And What If I Chose Not to Pay It? Some people intentionally leave certain collections unpaid—maybe they disagree with a charge, or feel a fine is unfair. Here are a few common “moral stand” collections: Disputed phone bills COVID-related fines Traffic tickets Unpaid spousal or child support While you might feel justified, lenders don’t take sides. They’re not interested in why a collection exists—only that it hasn’t been dealt with. And if it’s still active, that could be enough to derail your mortgage application. How Can You Find Out What’s On Your Report? Easy. You can check it yourself through services like Equifax or TransUnion, or you can work with a mortgage advisor to go through a full pre-approval. A pre-approval will quickly uncover any credit issues, including collections—giving you a chance to fix them before you apply for a mortgage. What To Do If You Have Collections Verify: Make sure the collection is accurate. Pay or Dispute: Settle the debt or begin a dispute process if it’s an error. Get Proof: Even if your credit report hasn’t updated yet, documentation showing the debt is paid can be enough for some lenders. Work With a Pro: A mortgage advisor can help you build a strategy and connect you with lenders who offer flexible solutions. Collections are common, but they can absolutely block your path to mortgage financing. Whether you knew about them or not, the best approach is to take action early. If you’d like to find out where you stand—or need help navigating your credit report—I’d be happy to help. Let’s make sure your next mortgage application has the best possible chance of approval.

Luisa & Candice Mortgages 

Contact Me Anytime!

The best way to get ahold of me is to submit through the contact form below. However feel free to give me a shout on the phone as well.

Contact Us