How (Not) to Consolidate Debt

Luisa Hough • May 19, 2016

By Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance.

The point: it doesn’t matter what method you use to pay off debt, or if you use any method at all. What matters is that you stop creating new debt.

It’s out there: the mathematically precise, strictly rational formula for paying off your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit balance. It’s not too hard to calculate the most efficient way to allocate every dollar and wring the most interest-busting bang out of each buck.

If that doesn’t work for you – and let’s be honest, it often doesn’t  – there’s a psychologically motivating method that throws math out the window and concentrates on tickling your brainpan with the momentum of every dollar that’s paid off – like the eponymous snowball rolling down a hill.

Proponents of these two camps are territorial and permanently at odds. (I’m just spitballing here, but I imagine it has to do with not being able to live inside somebody else’s brain and see how it works, like so many other disputes.)

Frankly, I don’t care how you pay off debt, so long as you simultaneously stop creating more.

Enter debt consolidation. Often a polarizing bone of contention between the two camps, debt consolidation – for those three of you in the back of the room unfamiliar with the concept – is when a lender gives you the money to pay back all of your other debt that’s scattered across the country and pay them back instead. They win by getting a new loan on the books, and stealing market share from the competition. You win by bringing down your overall interest rate.

What’s to argue with, right?

This is what to argue with: there’s a teeny-tiny window of opportunity in which debt consolidation is a powerful tool to bring your debt-free date closer and eat vast chunks out of the total amount of interest you’ll pay. That window of opportunity is open for about half an hour, and when it closes, it’s so hard to reopen that it might as well be painted shut.

If from the outset you don’t commit to a payment that is equal to or more than the amount you were paying on your unconsolidated debt, and that will get your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit paid off in less time than they were originally amortized for, then you’re not paying down your debt, you’re just moving it around.

If you don’t take a long, hard look at how you got into debt in the first place, and – from minute one of your newly consolidated life – take measured, calculated steps to not do it again, those credit card balances are going to creep back up again. You’ll find yourself in the same office, maybe even in front of the same banker, signing a new set of loan papers for a new consolidation loan three years down the road.

I began my career in banking in the heyday of debt consolidation lending. The amount of new unsecured dollars added to our lending portfolio was a huge component of our sales scorecard, and while the focus shifted to include a wider spectrum of  product sales after 2008, banks are still hungry for your debt consolidation dollars. *

Folks, I’ve seen a lot of debt consolidation train wrecks, and about five of them where due to circumstances beyond the borrower’s control. The other 7,256,219 were due to the window slamming shut, either because the borrower didn’t know or didn’t care about it.

I’d love to blame the bank for it (you know I would), but I can’t. Yes, the banker you sit across from has incentive to talk you into stupid stuff that’ll not only shut the window of opportunity, but nail it closed and board it up too. (“Increasing your cash flow” is a phrase that comes to mind.)

But down in the land of brass tacks, you just signed a loan to pay off other loans. If you weren’t thinking about how you got to this point at this point, when else are you going to think about it?

If it was important enough to you to take action, why isn’t it important enough to change your behaviour?

* They’d like those dollars to be in the form of a secured line of credit, though, and will sell you on the fact that you can consolidate again and again and again, without ever having to go back into the bank to do it.

This article was written by Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance and originally appeared on Spring the Blog here. 

Recent Posts

By Luisa & Candice Mortgages July 22, 2026
When you’re buying a home, two terms often cause confusion: deposit and down payment . While they’re related, they serve very different purposes in the homebuying process. Here’s what you need to know. What Is a Deposit? A deposit is the money you provide when you make an offer on a property. Think of it as a show of good faith that proves you’re serious about purchasing. How it works : Typically, you provide a certified cheque or bank draft that your real estate brokerage holds in trust. If your offer is accepted, the deposit remains in trust until the deal moves forward. If negotiations fall through, the deposit is refunded. Connection to your down payment : Once the sale is finalized, your deposit becomes part of your total down payment. Why it matters : The amount is negotiable, but a larger deposit can make your offer more attractive in a competitive market. Keep in mind, however, that if you back out after conditions are removed, you risk losing your deposit. What Is a Down Payment? Your down payment is the amount you contribute toward the purchase price of your home when securing a mortgage. Minimum requirement : In Canada, the minimum down payment is 5% of the home’s purchase price. Anything less than 20% requires mortgage default insurance. Sources : Down payments can come from your savings, the sale of another property, RRSP withdrawals (through the Home Buyers’ Plan), a gift from family, or even borrowed funds. Example: How They Work Together Imagine you’re buying a $400,000 home with a 10% down payment ($40,000). When you make your offer, you provide a $10,000 deposit . Once conditions are met, that deposit is transferred to your lawyer’s trust account. At closing, you add the remaining $30,000 to complete your full down payment. The lender provides the rest—$360,000—through your mortgage. The Bottom Line Your deposit shows commitment and secures your offer, while your down payment is what makes the mortgage possible. Together, they work hand in hand to get you into your new home. 📞 If you’d like clarity on deposits, down payments, or any other part of the mortgage process, let’s connect. I’d be happy to walk you through it step by step.
By Luisa & Candice Mortgages July 15, 2026
The Bank of Canada announced today that it is holding its target for the overnight rate at 2.25%, with the Bank Rate at 2.5% and the deposit rate at 2.20%. The tone of today's announcement is notably more optimistic than previous months. Here's what's changed and what it means for you.
By Luisa & Candice Mortgages July 8, 2026
Saving for a down payment is one of the biggest challenges first-time buyers face. What many don’t realize is that the Canadian government offers a program designed to make it easier—the Home Buyers’ Plan (HBP) . This program allows you to withdraw money from your RRSP to help purchase your first home, without immediate tax consequences. Here’s how it works: Who Qualifies? To be eligible, you generally need to be a first-time home buyer. In practical terms, this means you must not have owned a home in the past four years, nor lived in a property owned by your spouse or partner during that time. There are also special allowances if you’re living with a disability or helping a relative with a disability. In these cases, you can use the HBP even if you’ve owned a home more recently. How Much Can You Withdraw? Under the program, you can access up to $35,000 from your RRSP as an individual. Couples can combine their withdrawals for a total of $70,000 . These funds must have been in your RRSP for at least 90 days before you take them out. Paying It Back The HBP isn’t “free money”—it’s an interest-free loan from your own retirement savings. You’ll have 15 years to repay the full amount back into your RRSP, starting in the second year after withdrawal. Each year, the CRA will send you an HBP Statement of Account outlining how much needs to be repaid. If you don’t make your repayment in a given year, that amount will be added to your taxable income. Why It’s a Smart Strategy The HBP can give first-time buyers a powerful boost toward homeownership. It helps you put together a larger down payment, which can reduce your mortgage amount and monthly payments. Just remember: it’s important to balance the short-term benefit of homeownership with the long-term impact on your retirement savings. Next Steps Thinking about using the Home Buyers’ Plan? Let’s sit down and review whether it’s the right move for you. Together, we can create a strategy that gets you into your first home while keeping your future financial goals on track. 📞 Reach out anytime—it would be a pleasure to guide you through the process.

Luisa & Candice Mortgages 

Contact Me Anytime!

The best way to get ahold of me is to submit through the contact form below. However feel free to give me a shout on the phone as well.

Contact Us